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Cruising the Other LA (page 4)

 


Built after Hurricane Opal, Panama City Marina is big by panhandle standards.  Manager Chris Moser welcomes transients and provides water to cruisers who would rather anchor in picturesque Massalina Bayou behind the drawbridge. Massalina Bayou is quaint, filled with sailboats, and home to two funky, open-air restaurants - Bayou Joe's on the water, where you can tie up at the dock, and Hawk's Nest, on higher ground with sweeping vistas.

We linger and soak up the atmosphere.  Locals say the shopping mall wiped out most of the businesses, but the
 

old downtown (within walking distance) is rebounding with art galleries, antique shops, cafés, and restaurants.

If we had more cruising time, we'd check out desolate Crooked Island and Cape San Blas. Instead, we study the charts and dream of a day when we can continue our sail to Port St. Joe, Mexico Beach, Apalachicola, St. Marks, and Carrabelle, places where, as one native put it, the clothes are a little tighter and the people a little looser.  The Panhandle may be Florida's forgotten coast, but once you've been there, it isn't easy to forget.

 
Bayou Joe's in Massalina Bayou
 
     



While high tourist season runs June through Labor Day, summer in the Panhandle tends to be hot, and airless, with afternoon thunderstorms.  Spring and fall (when no hurricane is lurking) offer the best cruising conditions.  Marinas are plentiful throughout the region, with docking fees averaging $1.25/foot/night; reservations are suggested during peak months.  Anchorages abound along the ICW and the bayous.  It's cold, by Florida standards, from mid-December through February.
 
Charts and guides

● NOAA charts 11391 (St. Andrew Bay), 11383 (Pensacola Bay), 11385 (Choctawhatchee Bay)

● Maptech ChartKit Region 16, New Orleans to Panama City.

Cruising Guide to the Northern Gulf Coast, 3rd ed., by Claiborne S. Young (Pelican Publishing Co., Gretna, LA, 1998)

Light List and Waypoint Guide, compiled by John and Leslie Kettlewell (International Marine, Camden, ME, 1997)

 
Sailing condition/climate

The prevailing winds are south, but are not dependable.  Shoaling is an ever-present consideration, so it's important to supplement the charts with the depthsounder and make frequent visual checks for changes in water color (wear polarized sunglasses).  Binoculars (best with an integrated compass) are essential for spotting shoals and navigational buoys. Twelve feet is considered "deep," so a shallow-draft boat is best for cruising.  In addition, with highway bridges fixed at 50 feet, a higher mast can restrict your ability to use the ICW or various inlets to the Gulf.  The average tide is 1.5 feet, so mean low water is a less significant measure than in regions with considerable tidal change.

 

 

Chartering

We chartered from Emerald Coast Yachts in Pensacola Beach, Florida; 888-204-0241; 850-916-1161; www.ecsailing.com.

 
   

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