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Florida Panhandle Cruise, April 2003

(AS SEEN IN THE OCTOBER 2003 ISSUE OF CRUISING WORLD MAGAZINE)

Searching for Crooked Island
Cruising the shallow waters of Florida’s Emerald Coast

Story and Photographs by David Liscio


The morning sea breeze is already up and rustling the palmetto fronds as we emerge bleary-eyed onto the balcony of our Pensacola Beach hotel room. We are pilgrims from a cold planet, New Englanders eager to embrace the Florida Panhandle for warmth, sunshine, blue skies and the chance to sail a catamaran along the unspoiled Emerald Coast.   "I can tell you’re all not on island time yet, but you will be soon enough," he drawls, strumming his six-string with gusto as Leedy explains how to raise and lower the rudders and daggerboards on "Destiny," the 34-foot Gemini 105.
Crouch tells the story of a recent client who arrived at the dock with an impressive sailing resume and  then

The hotel is serving breakfast but our kids – Zack, 15, and Juliana, 11 -- are rifling through suitcases in search of bathing suits. It’s late April and the locals are in sweaters, but the 70-degree air temperature seems an inferno after Boston’s bitter cold, and within moments the kids are splashing in the pool to the horror of the housecleaning staff.

Through the magnolia trees and jasmine we can see the Sabine Marina, where the staff at Emerald Coast Sailing is making final preparations for our bareboat adventure.

Since my wife, Christine, and I are catamaran novices, Bill Crouch, owner of the school and charter business, joins instructor Fred Leedy who takes us on a three-hour shakedown in Pensacola Bay.

The author at the helm of Destiny

proceeded to destroy the mast on the company’s Hunter 36 by trying to pass beneath a fixed 50-foot bridge. "Took two months to get a new mast shipped," he says, emphasizing the need to thoroughly check out the skills of would-be bareboat skippers. Leedy gives us a lift to the supermarket to buy provisions and later we all meet for beers and burritos at Margarita’s, one of several restaurants on the lively Pensacola Beach boardwalk.

Our 12-day float plan for sailing between Pensacola and Apalachicola, or Cola-to-Cola as the natives say, is ambitious when gauged by the pace of the Old South, and by every measure the Panhandle is just that – graceful and unhurried,  an anachronism in these fast-paced times.  The regional maxim might easily be -- speed kills.

Leedy goes over an extensive checklist while Crouch serenades us with Jimmy Buffet tunes that emanate from his guitar. This is our second charter with the small, personalized company, so it’s more like a homecoming. Crouch marvels at how the kids have grown in only two years and they, in turn, want to catch up on his latest tales that are typically laced with humor.

 

Following Crouch’s advice, we spend the first full day exploring the waters of Big Lagoon and Perdido Key, nearer to Alabama with its down-on-the-bayou atmosphere, anchoring at night behind cliff-high barrier dunes where we grill our first cheeseburgers in Paradise. We’re psyched just to be here and besides, it’s not snowing.

   

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